Summer 2025 brought major changes to the nail polish industry. On September 1st, Europe officially banned the use of TPO in cosmetic products, forcing many gel polish brands to scramble and reformulate their ranges, and pull products off the shelves, in order to meet the new regulations. A real challenge for many, but not for Manucurist, who has always been TPO free, choosing to leave out controversial molecules from its formulas long before they are banned.
But what exactly is TPO? Why has it been prohibited? And most importantly, how can you tell if your polish is truly TPO-free? Let’s dive in!
What is TPO and what does it do?
Definition of TPO
TPO stands for diphenyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphine oxide, a photo-initiator commonly used in cosmetics-especially in formulas that require curing under UV or LED light, such as gels and Gel Polish.
TPO’s Role in Gel Polish and UV Gels
TPO allows the formula to cure under a UV or LED lamp. In short, without TPO (or an equivalent), Gel Polish can't harden or dry-the curing process won’t happen, and the polish remains liquid. A nail nightmare!
But what exactly is wrong with TPO?
Why has TPO been banned in Europe?
A CMR-classified substance (reprotoxic)
TPO has been under the scrutiny of European health authorities for quite some time.
Back in 2014, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) issued an opinion on its safety and possible skin-sensitizing effects.
Then in 2019, TPO was classified as a CMR substance-those that are potentially Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic. Specifically, it was placed in category CMR 2, meaning it was suspected of being toxic to human reproduction. At that point, its use was allowed with restrictions (a maximum concentration of 5%).
But in 2025, new scientific studies prompted EU authorities to update their assessment. TPO was reclassified as CMR 1B-proven to be toxic for human reproduction (according to Regulation No. 2025/977, known as “Omnibus VII”). This new status automatically triggered its ban in cosmetic products under European Cosmetics Regulation (EC No. 1223/2009).
What changes on 1 September 2025?
In the EU it is prohibited to :
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Sell cosmetic products containing TPO,
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Make TPO products available, even to professionals,
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Use TPO products for professional services (e.g. polish application, manicures, etc.).
Short-term consequence: A potential reduction in available Gel Polishes. Any products containing TPO-whether made by European or non-European brands-can no longer be sold in the EU market.
However, such bans often take time to be fully enforced, so consumers should remain vigilant when purchasing polish. Always check the INCI list on the packaging for the exact ingredients used.
So is this the end of Gel Polish? Or the start of a new generation of TPO-free polish?
Is TPO-free Gel Polish possible?
Are there alternatives to TPO?
The good news? Yes, it’s entirely possible to make Gel Polish without TPO.
In fact, at Manucurist, we’ve never used it! Just like we’ve never used other CMR-classified substances or methacrylate monomers (like HEMA and Di-HEMA-TMHDC) in our formulas.
Finding a safe alternative to TPO wasn’t easy-it took years of research. But eventually, we found it: TPO-L, a more stable and safer photo-initiator than TPO.
The difference between TPO and TPO-L isn’t just that little “L”. TPO-L is not classified as CMR, nor is it considered an endocrine disruptor. It’s a perfectly safe ingredient that delivers the same high performance-without the risks.
A new generation of safe, high-performance polishes
By developing polishes that are free from any controversial ingredients-well before any regulations required it-Manucurist has established itself as a pioneering, innovative brand, committed to more responsible and sustainable beauty.
With Green Flash™ in 2019, Manucurist launched a new generation of Gel Polish that makes no compromises-on safety for consumers and professionals, or on polish performance.
The secret? A vegan, bio-sourced formula made from up to 84% natural ingredients, and fully compliant with health standards. It doesn’t damage nails-in fact, it strengthens them thanks to the patented KeraHCE+ technology in our Green Flash™ Vitaminised Base Coat.
All while ticking every box you’d expect from a quality Gel Polish:
🔥 Cures quickly under LED lamp
🌈 Intense, long-lasting color
✨ A solid, glossy finish
⏱️ Long wear, up to 12 days
TPO was once a key ingredient in most Gel Polish formulas. Its ban in Europe could have marked the end of this nail staple. But no need to worry: safer, equally effective alternatives already exist. Green Flash™ is the perfect example.
So no, Gel Polish isn’t disappearing-it’s simply evolving, helping to pave the way for healthier, more conscious beauty.
